Aiguille Verte fell run?

[Alan Lucker]

Have any of you any knowledge of this peak. I was aiming to climb it in August as part of a trip to France. Is it a technical climb? My idea is to ascend a large peak out of the Chamonix Valley or near to it (at the end of my trip), this one looks like a good one, but the ridges near the summit look pretty tricky and steep. Any information would be appreciated, or any recommendations on which other large peaks (1 summit taking the best part of a day) I could have a go at in a fell running kind of way, in the Cham area.

[IanDarkpeak]

Have any of you any knowledge of this peak. I was aiming to climb it in August as part of a trip to France. Is it a technical climb? My idea is to ascend a large peak out of the Chamonix Valley or near to it (at the end of my trip), this one looks like a good one, but the ridges near the summit look pretty tricky and steep. Any information would be appreciated, or any recommendations on which other large peaks (1 summit taking the best part of a day) I could have a go at in a fell running kind of way, in the Cham area.

The AV is a big undertaking Alan, even the Petite Verte which is much easier still involves climbing and rope work. do you intend to do it in one day? with no bivvy and from the valley floor. it also involves alot of snow and glacial work.

if you wanted more of a light weight(as in kit not your performance) run I'd head for the Brevent. huge climb but little or no snow. if you wanted a bit of snow/ice then look further up the valley to Le tour and the Aigille LT probably need to camp or stay at the Albert Premier Hut though and take rope crampons etc

[Fellmincer]

Definitely not a running peak. All routes require some good steady technique on crampons and axes. You will need a rope unless you are very confident on steep ground and possibly two axes for some. You have to move together quickly over some fairly technical ground. As an example. you can get the last cable car to the grand montets. Bivvy at the station then 3am or earlier set off to complete the entire Grand Montets ridge to the summit of the Verte. This is very long and the usual descent is then down the Whympher couloir, so again good technique down climbing in crampons for a very long way when you're knackered is essential. YThis is a good site to find out more. If you haven't already take a look at Gaston Rebuffat's book 100 climbs in Mont Blanc Massif

A route like the aiguille du tour from the Albert Premier hut would be doable as a trekking type route so possibly runnable. Many peaks on the aiguille rouge side would be a safer option though.

[MorganW]

Alan

The Verte is for experts.

You could look at Mont Buet, which used to be called the Ladys' Mont Blanc.

It can be tackled from the main road from Cham to Vallorcine (Le Buet?) and would be a tough single day expedition. You would have to run some of the route to get up and down in a day or start early and finish late. Summit is around 3,600m?

I did it a few years ago with Mrs BGSec and we took a small tent and found a dried up tarn bed to put the tent on, on the stretch between the Refuge Pierre a Berard and the Col de Salenton. (The 2009 Trail des Aiguiiles Rouges went over the Col de S via the Refuge.)

Usually a bit quieter on that side of the Col des Montets too.

[MorganW]

A route like the aiguille du tour from the Albert Premier hut would be doable as a trekking type route so possibly runnable. Many peaks on the aiguille rouge side would be a safer option though.

Iain

How has the Aig du Tour bergshrund been in recent years?

A few years ago, after the dry winters, it transformed from almost negligible to a 70 foot ice cliff.

[Rudolph Hooker]

this one looks like a good one, but the ridges near the summit look pretty tricky and steep ... in a fell running kind of way

I just assumed this was a wind up. Lol - what's wrong with the Dru, then?

[Fellmincer]

Iain

How has the Aig du Tour bergshrund been in recent years?

A few years ago, after the dry winters, it transformed from almost negligible to a 70 foot ice cliff.

Morgan

Was three years ago when we were last in that area on our way to do the N face of the Chardonnet and can't say I noticed it. Too focussed on the main objective. I do recall abbing over some massive bergschrund on the descent though and walking back across the glacier du tour in the mist. It was still early season. Amazing place.

[fellgazelle]

Have any of you any knowledge of this peak. I was aiming to climb it in August as part of a trip to France. Is it a technical climb? My idea is to ascend a large peak out of the Chamonix Valley or near to it (at the end of my trip), this one looks like a good one, but the ridges near the summit look pretty tricky and steep. Any information would be appreciated, or any recommendations on which other large peaks (1 summit taking the best part of a day) I could have a go at in a fell running kind of way, in the Cham area.

Hi Alan,
The verte isn't a peak for running but if you fancy climbing it:
Sorry I've ended up writing an essay, I just can't resist as the Verte is such a magnificent mountain but there is no technically easy route up.
The Whymper couloir AD 800m is arguably the most straightforward route around 45-55 degree ice. Guide book time is 5-7 hours from the Couvercle hut, but you need to set off early, be able to move fast and aim to be up by at least 9a.m. as once the sun gets on the summit snows the couloir is frequently raked with stonefall. From what I remember you cross the bergschrund well to the right but it's quite some time since I've been up there so it may well be different now.

The Moine Ridge is the other easier route (although more of a mixed route) and is about the same level of technical difficulty and time but I have no experience of this route so can't really comment.
I climbed the Verte about 6 years ago by the Couturier couloir over on the Argentiere face and then descended by the Whymper. We bivvied at Grand Montets and set off about 10.45p.m. I think. The route is a fairly consistent 55 degree ice climb at D for about 900m. We climbed it in 5 and 3/4 hours, just short roping and cramponing from the glacier to the summit and landed on the top as dawn was breaking. I have to say in 20+ years of climbing this was one of the best days I've ever had. We broke out of the cloud after about 2 hours, there was a full moon and we barely needed torches. The pink light on the Chamonix Aiguilles at dawn was a sight I'll never forget.

However this was in early June and the guardian at the Argentierre hut reckoned there had only been a couple of ascents that year and ours would probably be the last due to the temperatures. I'm not sure how stable the conditions would be in August probably a bit warm for snow and ice couloirs but you never know.

Alternatively have go at one of the ridges, the Grand Montets Ridge looks impressive but is much longer at D IV for 1100m on rock and mixed. I think guidebook time is about 12 hours so a big day out, but possibly a safer option in August?
Other routes are much more serious.
Hope this helps, if you need any further info pm me.
Ian.

[Alan Lucker]

I just assumed this was a wind up. Lol - what's wrong with the Dru, then?

Sorry it is not a wind up. . Although I can now see how it could appear that way.

The answer to my question is a comprehensive no. Can’t you tell I have no idea of true mountains. Last August I sat on the deck chairs outside Chamonix Visitor center and looked at this peak in perfect summer sunshine, thinking I might one day climb it. I never realized how tough it is. Although when I recently saw it described as the toughest 4000m Alp it did get me worried that I will probably never climb it. Certainly not until I have at least done a few technical climbs and learned to use an ice axe, crampons, and ropes anyway.

Thanks for all your advice. I have been thinking of lowering my target; a lot. I went up to Brevent last year on a cable car and this seems do-able. Also, on Google earth anyway, Aguille De La Floria looks like a possibility.

Is there anything around the area at 3000 m + that’s easy ish (not technical) in a day.

[RichT]

Hi Alan

I think the idea of taking mountain running into the big glaciated peaks is interesting and not complete nonsense. However, it really needs some good experience at normal speeds with partner and all the alpine climbing kit so that you can get to know how things work. Crevasses are one of the main offputting things.

It would be interesting to know what the likes of Al Powell and Es Tressider think / have done / would like to do in this vein as both are pretty handy climbers and fell runners.

Ask Martin Stone (I think, and was it Mark McDermott??) about Aconcagua in a day in trainers.

Our French friends were quite bemused when my (tight Yorkshire) climbing partner insisted on being dropped off at La Praz as we drove to Cham to catch the telefrique to Plan de l'aiguille. We caught the frique and walked across to the Nantillons glacier. Half way across the glacier, with us wearing crampons, heading for a route on the Petite Charmoz, my partner arrived in his shorts and Walshes having steamed up the 1300m ascent from La Praz.

Chamonix isn't the best place in the Alps for big ascent, peak bagging runs - that's why its so good for climbing.

Cheers

Richard