BG 2012 Recce's....

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Originally Posted by Hank

I looked at BS and think it must be the quickest way if, as you say, you can solo it quickly and your pacer(s) can too. I reckon though that after 12+ hours running and the likelihood of the rock being wet, it's too risky for the big day. I don't want to use rope, so it's Foxes Tarn or LR/WWT for me. Lords Rake was fine... the chockstone is still there and there are a few other big rocks near it, but it looked stable enough and there's plenty of space on the sides to miss any slide. Deep Ghyll was probably worse in terms of looseness underfoot, but not dangerous. I did 29 minutes from top to top and was by no means pushing it.

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I 100% agree with Hank. I was up on BS a few weeks back and decided that although I think I'd be happy to do it in good conditions, it would be a different story in potentially wet and claggy weather and there's also the tiredness factor - to say nothing of how your pacers feel about it. It will be LR and WWT for me with Foxes Tarn as a back-up route.

I did a Leg 3 support earlier this year and the route employed was what I think is called "Foxes Traverse" or "Climbers Traverse", where you drop down towards Eskdale as normal for the FT route, however you hug the bluff and get onto an outcrop/shoulder that means you don't have to lose as much height and join the gully much higher up. It's OK in dry conditions (it was), but could be a bit dodgy if wet or you don't have a head for heights.

Martyn

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Originally Posted by Hank

When going between Scafell Pike and Scafell yesterday I tried the Lords Rake/West Wall Traverse for the first time and really liked it. I'm sure you descend less from the col for the bottom of Lords Rake than you do the Foxes Tarn route, and leaving LR before the chockstone to take the WWT and popping out of Deep Ghyll seemed pretty quick. Anyone else tried this route?

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Hi guys, I decided very early in my planning to go this way as I didn't want the hassle/worry of climbing BS (I know a few others who had chewed over this for months!!!).
I knew the route and used it on my round and was very happy with it. i think it is discussed in detail, with timings etc somewhere here on the forum)
Cheers, NB

I ve done Mickledore chimney a few times (solo) it feels safer than BS surprised it hasnt been mentioned on here

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Originally Posted by Nee Bother

Hi guys, I decided very early in my planning to go this way as I didn't want the hassle/worry of climbing BS (I know a few others who had chewed over this for months!!!).
I knew the route and used it on my round and was very happy with it. i think it is discussed in detail, with timings etc somewhere here on the forum)
Cheers, NB

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http://forum.fellrunner.org.uk/showt...ike-to-Scafell

In addition to the thread that DT linked to, there's a thread from a few years ago where I posted a shot showing the traverse line, PLUS it shows a higher line that you should avoid.

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Originally Posted by Chorlian

I ve done Mickledore chimney a few times (solo) it feels safer than BS surprised it hasnt been mentioned on here

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Tell me more...

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Originally Posted by Derby Tup

http://forum.fellrunner.org.uk/showt...ike-to-Scafell

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Hmmm. I read this thread earlier in the year and had sort of forgotten about it .... the "dodgy" Foxes Tarn route is the Climber's Traverse I mentioned earlier, I didn't know it was quite that frowned upon .... well, what I mean by that is considered dangerous enough to be banned in a race. In the wet it would undoubtedly be a bit scary, I seem to recall using a lot of grass to hang on to as we went along the shelf.

I did the Foxes Tarn Climber's Traverse on my attempt and thought it was fine - doubt it'd be "dangerous" even in the wet
I hated Lord's Rake when I recce'd it - still quite a lot of descent from Mickledore and steep/slippy (even when dry), didn't enjoy the rake(s) either (very steep/loose and not as direct as I thought it'd be), although didn't do WWT so can't comment on that aspect.

Hank. mickledore chimney starts just to the left of BS (20ft?) easy scrambling in chimney then one committing move out of chimney onto slabs above BS about five years since i have been that way so details may be a bit hazy i thinf it is graded mod or diff as a climb. ill be going this way in the summer

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Originally Posted by Chorlian

Hank. mickledore chimney starts just to the left of BS (20ft?) easy scrambling in chimney then one committing move out of chimney onto slabs above BS about five years since i have been that way so details may be a bit hazy i thinf it is graded mod or diff as a climb. ill be going this way in the summer

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Never done it myself, but it's graded Difficult in my FRCC guidebook, 75m long (ie high).
"Rockfall from Broad Stand constitutes a serious hazard on this climb. Continuing down the scree from Broad Stand this is the deeply-cut chimney bounding the East Buttress on the right. Scrambling leads to a chockstone which is taken on the right. The direct finish goes past the chockstone on the left to a belay below the double chockstone pitch. Climb the chimney to a ledge on the left and then the corner on the right (10 metres). Scree and a short chimney followed by a traverse right finish the climb. In winter a large icefall on the left provides a good finish."