Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Alan Lucker
Have any of you any knowledge of this peak. I was aiming to climb it in August as part of a trip to France. Is it a technical climb? My idea is to ascend a large peak out of the Chamonix Valley or near to it (at the end of my trip), this one looks like a good one, but the ridges near the summit look pretty tricky and steep. Any information would be appreciated, or any recommendations on which other large peaks (1 summit taking the best part of a day) I could have a go at in a fell running kind of way, in the Cham area.
:eek: The AV is a big undertaking Alan, even the Petite Verte which is much easier still involves climbing and rope work. do you intend to do it in one day? with no bivvy and from the valley floor. it also involves alot of snow and glacial work.
if you wanted more of a light weight(as in kit not your performance) run I'd head for the Brevent. huge climb but little or no snow. if you wanted a bit of snow/ice then look further up the valley to Le tour and the Aigille LT probably need to camp or stay at the Albert Premier Hut though and take rope crampons etc
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Definitely not a running peak. All routes require some good steady technique on crampons and axes. You will need a rope unless you are very confident on steep ground and possibly two axes for some. You have to move together quickly over some fairly technical ground. As an example. you can get the last cable car to the grand montets. Bivvy at the station then 3am or earlier set off to complete the entire Grand Montets ridge to the summit of the Verte. This is very long and the usual descent is then down the Whympher couloir, so again good technique down climbing in crampons for a very long way when you're knackered is essential. YThis is a good site to find out more. If you haven't already take a look at Gaston Rebuffat's book 100 climbs in Mont Blanc Massif
A route like the aiguille du tour from the Albert Premier hut would be doable as a trekking type route so possibly runnable. Many peaks on the aiguille rouge side would be a safer option though.
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Alan
The Verte is for experts.
You could look at Mont Buet, which used to be called the Ladys' Mont Blanc.
It can be tackled from the main road from Cham to Vallorcine (Le Buet?) and would be a tough single day expedition. You would have to run some of the route to get up and down in a day or start early and finish late. Summit is around 3,600m?
I did it a few years ago with Mrs BGSec and we took a small tent and found a dried up tarn bed to put the tent on, on the stretch between the Refuge Pierre a Berard and the Col de Salenton. (The 2009 Trail des Aiguiiles Rouges went over the Col de S via the Refuge.)
Usually a bit quieter on that side of the Col des Montets too.
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Fellmincer
A route like the aiguille du tour from the Albert Premier hut would be doable as a trekking type route so possibly runnable. Many peaks on the aiguille rouge side would be a safer option though.
Iain
How has the Aig du Tour bergshrund been in recent years?
A few years ago, after the dry winters, it transformed from almost negligible to a 70 foot ice cliff.
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Alan Lucker
this one looks like a good one, but the ridges near the summit look pretty tricky and steep ... in a fell running kind of way
I just assumed this was a wind up. Lol - what's wrong with the Dru, then?
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
BGSec
Iain
How has the Aig du Tour bergshrund been in recent years?
A few years ago, after the dry winters, it transformed from almost negligible to a 70 foot ice cliff.
Morgan
Was three years ago when we were last in that area on our way to do the N face of the Chardonnet and can't say I noticed it. Too focussed on the main objective. I do recall abbing over some massive bergschrund on the descent though and walking back across the glacier du tour in the mist. It was still early season. Amazing place.
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Alan Lucker
Have any of you any knowledge of this peak. I was aiming to climb it in August as part of a trip to France. Is it a technical climb? My idea is to ascend a large peak out of the Chamonix Valley or near to it (at the end of my trip), this one looks like a good one, but the ridges near the summit look pretty tricky and steep. Any information would be appreciated, or any recommendations on which other large peaks (1 summit taking the best part of a day) I could have a go at in a fell running kind of way, in the Cham area.
Hi Alan,
The verte isn't a peak for running but if you fancy climbing it:
Sorry I've ended up writing an essay, I just can't resist as the Verte is such a magnificent mountain but there is no technically easy route up.
The Whymper couloir AD 800m is arguably the most straightforward route around 45-55 degree ice. Guide book time is 5-7 hours from the Couvercle hut, but you need to set off early, be able to move fast and aim to be up by at least 9a.m. as once the sun gets on the summit snows the couloir is frequently raked with stonefall. From what I remember you cross the bergschrund well to the right but it's quite some time since I've been up there so it may well be different now.
The Moine Ridge is the other easier route (although more of a mixed route) and is about the same level of technical difficulty and time but I have no experience of this route so can't really comment.
I climbed the Verte about 6 years ago by the Couturier couloir over on the Argentiere face and then descended by the Whymper. We bivvied at Grand Montets and set off about 10.45p.m. I think. The route is a fairly consistent 55 degree ice climb at D for about 900m. We climbed it in 5 and 3/4 hours, just short roping and cramponing from the glacier to the summit and landed on the top as dawn was breaking. I have to say in 20+ years of climbing this was one of the best days I've ever had. We broke out of the cloud after about 2 hours, there was a full moon and we barely needed torches. The pink light on the Chamonix Aiguilles at dawn was a sight I'll never forget.
However this was in early June and the guardian at the Argentierre hut reckoned there had only been a couple of ascents that year and ours would probably be the last due to the temperatures. I'm not sure how stable the conditions would be in August probably a bit warm for snow and ice couloirs but you never know.
Alternatively have go at one of the ridges, the Grand Montets Ridge looks impressive but is much longer at D IV for 1100m on rock and mixed. I think guidebook time is about 12 hours so a big day out, but possibly a safer option in August?
Other routes are much more serious.
Hope this helps, if you need any further info pm me.:)
Ian.
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Rudolph Hooker
I just assumed this was a wind up. Lol - what's wrong with the Dru, then?
Sorry it is not a wind up. :o . Although I can now see how it could appear that way.
The answer to my question is a comprehensive no. Can’t you tell I have no idea of true mountains. Last August I sat on the deck chairs outside Chamonix Visitor center and looked at this peak in perfect summer sunshine, thinking I might one day climb it. I never realized how tough it is. Although when I recently saw it described as the toughest 4000m Alp it did get me worried that I will probably never climb it. Certainly not until I have at least done a few technical climbs and learned to use an ice axe, crampons, and ropes anyway.
Thanks for all your advice. I have been thinking of lowering my target; a lot. I went up to Brevent last year on a cable car and this seems do-able. Also, on Google earth anyway, Aguille De La Floria looks like a possibility.
Is there anything around the area at 3000 m + that’s easy ish (not technical) in a day.
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Hi Alan
I think the idea of taking mountain running into the big glaciated peaks is interesting and not complete nonsense. However, it really needs some good experience at normal speeds with partner and all the alpine climbing kit so that you can get to know how things work. Crevasses are one of the main offputting things.
It would be interesting to know what the likes of Al Powell and Es Tressider think / have done / would like to do in this vein as both are pretty handy climbers and fell runners.
Ask Martin Stone (I think, and was it Mark McDermott??) about Aconcagua in a day in trainers.
Our French friends were quite bemused when my (tight Yorkshire) climbing partner insisted on being dropped off at La Praz as we drove to Cham to catch the telefrique to Plan de l'aiguille. We caught the frique and walked across to the Nantillons glacier. Half way across the glacier, with us wearing crampons, heading for a route on the Petite Charmoz, my partner arrived in his shorts and Walshes having steamed up the 1300m ascent from La Praz.
Chamonix isn't the best place in the Alps for big ascent, peak bagging runs - that's why its so good for climbing.
Cheers
Richard
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
I agree with Richard - there are possibilities for a 'running approach' to Alpine peaks, but you have to pick the right area. I visit the Maritime Alps above Nice every year for short multi-day peak-bagging tours before my kids arrive for a normal family on the coast. Eminently suitable to tackle fell-running style, which is what I do - wear innov-8s, carry OMM sac etc. Generally non-technical peaks, around 3000m, usually mildish scrambles with tricky route-finding and awkward terrain (not always runnable!). Some big snow patches, which make kahtoolas or similar advisable, although you can get away without them esp late season. Normally get the peaks to myself (locals do them on skis in spring).
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Alan, don't lose sight of your initial ambition, you've just got a bit of an apprenticeship to serve before knocking off the Verte. There's plenty more to go at in the meantime though.
If you want to summit on some mountains in the Alps then in teh Chamonix valley, you've got all of the Aiguilles Rouges to go at with a great network of trails and several local races. I've spent several rainy days in the valley doing either of the Balcons du Nord or du Sud and it's something to do while waiting for the weather to improve so climbing can recommence. In the Aiguille Rouges themselves, there's a lot of rocky crests which are as hard as anything you'll find on Skye and these are big hills too - > 1000 m from valley floor to summit.
Your extra requirement to get above 3000 m makes me suggest that you should look elsewhere as all the stuff around that height in the Mont Blanc area has snow/ice around it. Get yourself down to the Ecrins where it's a bit further south, there's only one 4000 m summit and the glaciers are retreating faster than you can say Copenhagen. It's very rocky but there's some good high passes that make hut-to-hut runs feasible if you want to do some multi-day stuff. There's no lifts round here (although you're not far from the ski resorts of La Grave and Deux Alpes) and the views are fantastic. In particular, some of the mountains in the NW and the SW of this area give big outings without the need to cross any glaciers and yet get a good 3000 m summit with little more than scrambling involved.
All that said, these are big mountains, you'll certainly feel the altitude (it kicks in for me at about 2200-2300 m if I start from valley floor) and the weather can change with little warning - even the experienced get caught out. Snow and whiteouts in high summer at these altitudes are common and you should have enough in your sack to cope with it.
Enjoy the mountains! At the very least you'll get good at hill-climbing just get up out of the valleys!!
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Oh, and I second the use of Kahtoolas (very lightweight crampons) if you need to shimmy across the odd snowfield. And learn to use an ice axe too, if you haven't already. They are pretty much obligatory if you're going on hard snow in summer and you can get very lightweight ones as used in ski touring.
Some other thoughts being as it's lunchtime: Most big glaciers are dry (and hence the crevasses are obvious and usually easily avoidable) and runnable. Getting on and off them is usually a technical and intellectual challenge, though. I've done a circuit around Argentiere taking in the Tour and Argentiere glaciers which was runnable in its entirety apart from the section off the Argentiere glacier up to the top of the Argentiere ski station which required crampons. I also can't stress enough the need for adequate covering of sun tan lotion :eek:
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Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
You'll need a bit more than Kahtoolas and Walshes Alan!
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Alan Lucker
Is there anything around the area at 3000 m + that’s easy ish (not technical) in a day.
Alan
I made 1 suggestion in an earlier post.
I have had a couple of weeks in and around Cham every year for about 15 years so know the area very well.
There are a few options for easy climbing, and I have done quite a few of the easier snow routes at PD or less.
I have run all over the Aiguilles Rouges, both day runs and multi-day trips with the Laserlight Comp, a few bits of kit and the wife for company.
If you would like a chat about options, PM me with your number and I'll give you a call.
If you have the maps handy, that would help.
Morgan
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
The Navigator
You'll need a bit more than Kahtoolas and Walshes Alan!
I will have a go 1 day. But maybe serve my apprentice first, as advised earlier. It is now on my “to do” list. The goal is up and down in one continuous effort, before I turn 40...........Wearing Inov-8s.:D
For my trip I will look at the Aiguilles Rouges and do some other trail type runs further up around col du montets, and maybe beyond, maybe even courmayeur. I am going to spectate the TMB this year so I will be looking out for the Union jacks on the numbers, good luck to all of you entered.
Thanks for the offer BG sec but I only have Google earth to go on at the minute and, as is apparent, I am at the infancy stage in terms of knowledge of the mountains in the area. I think a bit more playing with Google earth away from the white stuff should get me a few good runs sorted. You have reminded me about my lack of maps though. Some mountain biking is on the agenda too. Any of you any tips on were to hire a bike. Thanks again for all the information.
Re: Aiguille Verte fell run?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Alan Lucker
I will have a go 1 day. But maybe serve my apprentice first, as advised earlier. It is now on my “to do” list. The goal is up and down in one continuous effort, before I turn 40...........Wearing Inov-8s.:D
For my trip I will look at the Aiguilles Rouges and do some other trail type runs further up around col du montets, and maybe beyond, maybe even courmayeur. I am going to spectate the TMB this year so I will be looking out for the Union jacks on the numbers, good luck to all of you entered.
Thanks for the offer BG sec but I only have Google earth to go on at the minute and, as is apparent, I am at the infancy stage in terms of knowledge of the mountains in the area. I think a bit more playing with Google earth away from the white stuff should get me a few good runs sorted. You have reminded me about my lack of maps though. Some mountain biking is on the agenda too. Any of you any tips on were to hire a bike. Thanks again for all the information.
Alan, the 2 IGN blue series maps at 1:25,000 are invaluable and a joy to look at! Widely available and also via Stanfords, the map people.
I'd be happy to make some recommendations either now or in due course if that would help.
Several bike hire places in Cham, easy to find. Took the kids for a day's MB a few years ago. Some quite hairy stuff if you fancy it. There are a couple of descent routes which involve going up in the cable car to Flegere then striaght back down. Have seen a few walking wounded pushing their bikes over the years.
