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Thread: Bolts on Broad Stand

  1. #11
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Thats not a proper way to do things. It should be challenging not deliberately made a doddle. It just encourages inexperience and needless damage to the fells
    Trying to plod up hills every day slightly faster than the day before

  2. #12
    Master MorganW's Avatar
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by TurboTom View Post
    Thats not a proper way to do things. It should be challenging not deliberately made a doddle. It just encourages inexperience and needless damage to the fells
    Damage to a particularly famous piece of rock in this case.

    Coleridge would be spinning in his grave.

    It is inexcusable, be it climber or runner.

    Stephen Reid suggested that the position of the bolts does not point to them being placed for rescue purposes. And if they have I assume they would have been chopped afterwards.
    The only one who can tell you "You can't" is you. And you don't have to listen.

  3. #13
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by BGSec View Post
    Damage to a particularly famous piece of rock in this case.

    Coleridge would be spinning in his grave.

    It is inexcusable, be it climber or runner.

    Stephen Reid suggested that the position of the bolts does not point to them being placed for rescue purposes. And if they have I assume they would have been chopped afterwards.

    Was it not the first classified grade 3 scramble
    Trying to plod up hills every day slightly faster than the day before

  4. #14
    Member Norman Bates's Avatar
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    On a similar note whilst assisting on a BG only last year a climber friend of mine walked up from Wadale to fix a rope on and assist the runners on Broad stand. He managed under difficult (running water) conditions to fix the rope but when we got to the col he advised us not to use Broad stand and choose another route.(We used the Lords Rake West Wall Traverse route which is probably just as quick)
    He was unable to remove the rope the same day because of the conditions despite using the same route as ourselves to the summit and climbing back down to the rope. He had no option but to leave the rope in place and returned early the following day to find the rope had been removed.
    There is no place for artificial aids of any kind in our mountains and maybe the rope was removed by someone who shares that view which my friend agrees with although was it simply stolen by someone with no such scruples and wanted the rope for themselves.

  5. #15
    Grandmaster IanDarkpeak's Avatar
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by TurboTom View Post
    What exactly has happened to cause this disgust, can you explain it for a novice
    Quote Originally Posted by Baggins View Post
    Here Ian

    One below and one above the corner
    Quote Originally Posted by Baggins View Post
    Its damage to a natural feature.

    You have to drill a hole in the rock to fit the bolt.

    It then encourages people who should not be there to attempt, they get scared and then want even better protection, before you know it you have a ladder there instead.

    Its a very selfish act.
    Thanks Bill for the short answer.

    Bolting was and is a huge issue all over the country Tom to put a bolt on Broad Stand is the mountain equivalent of bolting Flying Buttress at Stanage. there is absolutly no excuse for it. I can't imagine MR teams using it either although I'm happy to be corrected. We carry spare ropes and Stakes as a last resort. Any lakeland teams want to comment?

    This topic will get hot Imagine.

  6. #16
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by IanDarkpeak View Post
    Thanks Bill for the short answer.

    Bolting was and is a huge issue all over the country Tom to put a bolt on Broad Stand is the mountain equivalent of bolting Flying Buttress at Stanage. there is absolutly no excuse for it. I can't imagine MR teams using it either although I'm happy to be corrected. We carry spare ropes and Stakes as a last resort. Any lakeland teams want to comment?

    This topic will get hot Imagine.

    Ive been to stanage. I take it that its much easier to climb when bolting
    Trying to plod up hills every day slightly faster than the day before

  7. #17

    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Looks like its been there from at least 04/01/09

    I can't imagine WMR would put bolts in and anyways their last call out at Broad Stand was 16/02/08
    Bill

  8. #18
    Grandmaster IanDarkpeak's Avatar
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by TurboTom View Post
    Ive been to stanage. I take it that its much easier to climb when bolting
    Ahh the innocence of youth

    To put a bolt on a route that has been climbed thousands of times with out such aid on such an historic piece of rock is crass vandalism of mind blowing proportions.

    To put a bolt in protects the route and alters it's state. some routes may have ground falls from their crux. if it was done this way by the first person then there is really no excuse to put a bolt there. Place a bolt by the crux and you are just top roping a problem

    If you can't do it with out bolting it don't do it.

    It is/was exceptable on sport routes on slate/limestone where routes have no natural features but on a classic never.
    Some one feel free to correct me if this has changed.

  9. #19
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    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by IanDarkpeak View Post
    Ahh the innocence of youth

    To put a bolt on a route that has been climbed thousands of times with out such aid on such an historic piece of rock is crass vandalism of mind blowing proportions.

    To put a bolt in protects the route and alters it's state. some routes may have ground falls from their crux. if it was done this way by the first person then there is really no excuse to put a bolt there. Place a bolt by the crux and you are just top roping a problem

    If you can't do it with out bolting it don't do it.

    It is/was exceptable on sport routes on slate/limestone where routes have no natural features but on a classic never.
    Some one feel free to correct me if this has changed.
    Believe it or not i actually understand that
    Trying to plod up hills every day slightly faster than the day before

  10. #20

    Re: Bolts on Broad Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by Norman Bates View Post
    There is no place for artificial aids of any kind in our mountains
    Maybe its time that people attempting the BG alow the extra few minutes to go via Foxes Tarn/Lords Rake as every year ropes get left in place.

    On my BG I was going to climb it without ropes but it was too wet so went via Lords Rake, no big deal.
    Bill

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