Bolts on Broad Stand

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Originally Posted by IanDarkpeak

"Any attemptee or supporter found to actively(Deliberatly) damaging the enviroment or nature of the BG route ....etc" or words to that effect.

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A general statement seems a good idea, but also something specific about "leaving BS in the state you found it" might also help drive the point home eg.

"Contenders who choose to go via Broad Stand often arrange to have supporters in place with ropes for protection. This is acceptable but permanent anchors must not be placed and all ropes and other equipment should be removed immediately afterwards."

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Originally Posted by fellgazelle

As for 3:1 assisted hoists, do people really consider this as a viable option?

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That was meant to be tongue-in-cheek :) but I agree with your main point entirely.

Thanks for the feedback so far, all helpful.

Morgan

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Originally Posted by keighley-elstub

I'm using Lord's Rake on the 27th June (if I get that far).

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I thought Lord's Rake was off limits to everyone due to a very precarious boulder at the top - or has it finally moved?

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Originally Posted by FellJunior

I thought Lord's Rake was off limits to everyone due to a very precarious boulder at the top - or has it finally moved?

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Did you watch Dodgeball on FilmFour last night?

I think that's the plan for when the rock moves.

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Originally Posted by IanDarkpeak

I think thats too specific.

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I think you have to be specific though. As wether or not a BG attempt put these bolts in, the fact that ropes have been left in place has gave the green light to someone to make it "safer"

Maybe not mention bolts and pegs but something about not having ropes in place the day before the attempt and then left in place after it.

The "ropeman" must stay with the ropes at all times might solve it ;)

Also the ropes must be placed without damaging the rock.

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Originally Posted by FellJunior

I thought Lord's Rake was off limits to everyone due to a very precarious boulder at the top - or has it finally moved?

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the Large Boulder is permanently moving!! actually I believe it's the rock face it's leaning on that is causing the problem.

If you are in the rake when the boulder goes then I'm afraid thats the end of you BG....

...Permanently:(:(

I would expect it to go eventually probably one warm spring morning after a good freeze...

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Originally Posted by IanDarkpeak

If you are in the rake when the boulder goes then I'm afraid thats the end of you BG....

...Permanently:(:(

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I believe Dodgeball has been mentioned already, if you've trained with wrenches and traffic what are your chances:D

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Originally Posted by BGSec

Many of us have had rope support for the ascent/descent of Broad Stand.

I have prepared some revised Guidelines for the BG Club website with text about Broad Stand, which both Bob and Baggins have kindly looked at.

What would the feeling be about a BG Club rule that said that anyone who went against any BS guidance from the Club would not have their round recognised for membership?

Difficult to police I know, but new guidelines and that approach might be all that was needed to have the right impact?

Morgan

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Morgan just another thought. I think what you suggest is okay and fair, but could you make a link to the BMC's crag code on the BG site?

I think this bolting may occur again in the future as there will be groups not interested in the BG club or British climbing ethics that will just see broadstand as an inconvenient obstacle. And the problem then of having too many rules is alienating folk from the challenge. But then it probably needs that extra step as it seems the BG is reaching another peak in attempts from all walks.

This link may help assess the Lord's Rake situation.

unfortunately i don't think adding 'rules' to the bg club will stop this happening. there will always be people who aren't interested in the 'ethics of the outdoors' but guidance would certainly be helpful for those who may make that mistake unintentionally.

personally, if/when/maybe :o i would choose to go round via foxes tarn unless i've suddenly become a competent climber/boulder-er. just playing devils advocate....in some ways it's just an extension of having road support/pacers/internet to plan route etc