Broad Stand

[alwaysinjured]

Yes I know it. Been up and down it quite a few times when climbing on east buttress or going between scafell pike and scafell. I know what you are saying about hitting the platform with your feet, but if the sling gets loaded a bit more than expected, then it could hurt - that's all I mean. For someone with experience who knows the limits of the set up (as you obviously do) I'm sure it's a good solution.

For anyone interested in math modelling - you choose the length of the sling ( or rope ) to give you just sufficient freedom to climb up at the horizontal distance left of the flake foothold from the corner. therefore if the platform were not there the fall would in essnce be a pendulum at the radius of that distance ( perhaps 3 m). Calculate the energy you have mgh - to calculate the hirozontal velocity at the positon below the corner, 0.5mv.2 - so v.2=2gh - where h is the same radius r from that velocity calculate the centripetal force taken by the rope or sling mv.2/r - and you can see that the force taken for a 100kg climber would be of order kN on a sling with breaking stress 20 kn plus even if there was no platform , so way inside the spec. The motion is essentially lateral/ pendulum.

Except the fall is actually halted by impact with the platform long before being below the corner and most of that energy is dissipated before the sling has to take very much at all.

It is not a vertical fall on a static sling, it is only there to stop a slip, and the inevitable slide that would result after impact with the sloping left hand side of the platform


If you dont believe me or have concerns take a short length of rope - the thread is focussing on the wrong issue - the abiliuty to protect with nuts removable from above. You can take the rope with pretied half figure of 8, attached to the nuts by screwgate, and all you have to do is take it out of bumbag, slot the nuts, complete the figure of 8 round waist and up you go and one short yank takes out the nuts. Back in bumbag.( which is how I carry it in my sack to stop it tangling and also, so I can put round my waist before fat mans, so is accessible without removing sack on broad stand itself. Done.

Reccie first to know the right lengths, I have two nuts with white tape in my climbing gear selected for broadstand